Most visitors to Machalilla National Park and Playa de los Frailes arrive from Puerto López, a fishing village known for its charm and proximity to many destinations along the Ruta del Spondylus. In Puerto López, many tour guides offer day tours that combine a visit to Playa de Los Frailes with sulfur baths and the Agua Blanca archaeological museum for $25 per person.
Access to Playa de Los Frailes is just before reaching Machalilla and 10 km north of Puerto López. To get to the beach by car, you must enter the park and drive 3 km beyond the caretaker station, where you pay the entrance fee. (update: entrance to the park is free as of January 17, 2012) and you can buy soft drinks and water. A taxi from Puerto Lopez costs about $7 one way, and less than $15 round trip.
Taxi drivers usually leave and return at the appointed time. Alternatively, you can take a bus from Puerto Lopez to Jipijapa that costs 0.25 cents, takes about 20 minutes, and drops passengers off at the park entrance. From there, visitors can take a moto taxi that costs $3, or walk along one of the trails that lead to the beach. Taking the one on the left will take about 30 minutes to get to the beach; taking the one on the right can take about 2 hours, but it is worth it for how incredibly scenic this 4km long winding trail is.
Hiking and nature lovers can take the longer route, which meanders through an exceptional dry forest with bottle-shaped trees adorned with thick thorns and long, thin cacti. There are also rock formations, viewing points, small bays and islets. This trail also passes two beaches, Playita Negra, a small bay of black sand, and Playa La Tortuguita, where sharp rock outcrops jut out from its turquoise waters. From Playa La Tortuguita, you can take the main road back to Playa de Los Frailes, or take another detour that leads through aromatic trees to a high clearing from where you can see the shore. Those who choose this hike will be rewarded with various wildlife sightings that may include blue-footed boobies, frigate birds, lizards, deer, and of course, the white sands of the open and natural Playa de Los Frailes.
Playa de los Frailes is hailed as one of the most beautiful beaches in Ecuador and South America. Its entry fee, along with the protected status of the Machalilla National Park, has kept it natural, clean and calm, despite the crabs and seabirds that inhabit it. Although its semicircular bay has very few waves and its waters look calm and seductive, bathers and divers must be careful of its strong currents.
We recommend swimming in the company of others and only at the ends of the bay where the current is weaker. We also recommend bringing plenty of water, sunscreen, and a large hat or beach umbrella since there are few places with shade, and the beautiful views keep travelers on the beach longer than they would like.
The cost of admission to the park is approximately $20, lasts for 5 days, and includes all areas of the park, including the islands. For those who only wish to explore Playa de Los Frailes and the land areas of the park, the cost of admission is approximately $12. Tickets can be purchased at the park's headquarters in Puerto López, which shares facilities with a regional tour operator, or at the park gatekeepers' station located at the park entrance. We recommend carrying the receipt of payment with you at all times while in the park.
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